How to Teach a Chinese Shar-Pei Dog Tricks

Nothing will improve a dog’s quality of life better than having a few tricks under its belt. Teaching any trick expands the dog’s vocabulary, which facilitates communication and improves the owner’s control. Also, specific tricks Help prevent and resolve specific behavior problems. For example, by teaching the dog to fetch his toys, the dog learns carrying a toy makes the owner happy and, therefore, will be more likely to chew his toy than other inappropriate items.

More important, teaching tricks prompts owners to lighten up and train with a sunny disposition. Really, tricks should be no different from any other behaviors we put on cue. But they are. When teaching tricks, owners have a much sweeter attitude, which in turn motivates the dog and improves her willingness to comply. The dog feels tricks are a blast, but formal commands are a drag. In fact, tricks are so enjoyable, they may be used as rewards in training by asking the dog to come, sit and down-stay and then rollover for a tummy rub. Go on, fry if: Crack a smile and even giggle when the dog promptly and willingly lies down and stays.

Chinese Shar-Pei Dog

Most important, performing tricks prompts onlookers to smile and giggle. Many people are scared of dogs, especially large ones. And nothing can be more off-putting for a dog than to be constantly confronted by strangers who don’t like him because of his size or the way he looks. Uneasy people put the dog on edge, causing him to back off and bark, only frightening people all the more. And so a vicious circle develops, with the people’s fear fueling the dog’s fear and vice versa. Instead, tie a pink ribbon to your dog’s collar and practice all sorts of tricks on walks and in the park, and you will be pleasantly amazed how it changes people’s attitudes toward your friendly dog. The dog’s repertoire of tricks is limited only by the trainer’s imagination. Below I have described three of my favorites:


The training sequence involved in teaching a dog to bark on request is no different from that used when training any behavior on cue; request, lure, response, reward. As always, the secret of success lies in finding an effective lure. If the dog always barks at the doorbell, for example, say “Rover, speak!”, have an accomplice ring the doorbell, then reward the dog for barking. After a few woofs, ask Rover to “Shush!”, waggle a food treat under his nose (to entice him to sniff and thus to shush), praise him when quiet and eventually offer the treat as a reward. Alternate “Speak” and “Shush,” progressively increasing the length of shush-time between each barking bout.


With the dog standing, say “Bow!” and lower the food lure (palm upwards) to rest between the dog’s forepaws. Praise as the dog lowers her forequarters and sternum to the ground (as when teaching the down), but then lure the dog to stand and offer the treat. On successive trials, gradually   increase   the length of time the dog is required to remain in the playbow posture in order to gain a food reward. If the dog’s rear end collapses into a down, say nothing and offer no reward; simply start over.


With the dog sitting backed into a corner to prevent him from toppling over backwards, say “Be a Bear!” With bent paw and palm down, raise a lure upwards and backwards along the top of the dog’s muzzle. Praise the dog when he sits up on his haunches and offer the treat as a reward. To prevent the dog from standing on his hind legs, keep the lure closer to the dog’s muzzle. On each trial, progressively increase the length of time the dog is required to sit up to receive a food reward. Since lure/ reward training is so easy, teach the dog to stand and walk on his hind legs as well!

Filed Under: Pets & Animals


About the Author: Fred Goodson has a passion for pets and animals. He has 4 dogs and is planning to have another one. He is also a blogger who writes about pets and animals. Currently, he is living in New Jersey.

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